Nasir Al-Mulk Mosque – Shiraz, Fars Province, Iran

The architecture of pre-Islamic Iran is divided into two styles of “Parsian” and “Parthian”.

Parsian Style

it is the first architectural style in Iran starting from Achaemenid era until the invasion of Alexander (from 6th to 4th B.C). Rectangular spaces with columned halls, construction of buildings on platform, introverted style, using wooden ceilings, carved stones, plinth and capital, decoration of entrance and glazed tile in interior sectors are among the main features of Parsian architecture.

Parthian Style

As the name suggests, Parthian Style is the architecture used by the Parthian, it includes diversity in patterns, introverted style, symmetry in construction of palaces and temples, increase in the height of buildings, curved arches and domes, squinches below the domes, using local materials like rubble, adobe, brick, mud, and stucco work.

Iran’s Architecture from the Advent of Islam to Seljuk (6^th to 11^th centuries)

In spite of the advent of Islam, for years, Iran’s architectural style was dependent on the past elements. After that, Muslim artists introduced new forms, buildings, and constructs like mosque, school, bridge, castle and caravanserai with respect to previous artistic features especially Sassanid ones and inspired Islamic mind-set.

At the beginning of Islamic time, more attention was paid to the construction of mosque. The mosques usually had simple structures, but from this time, we witnessed the rise of Muqarnas decorative designs (decorations made of brick, tile, stone, plaster and wood) as an ornament of the mosque. The Muqarnas decorative styles used in Gonbad-e Qabus tower is one of the earliest examples of it in 10th century. Besides, Ribat-i Mahi, contemporary to Gonbad-e Qabus tower, has muddy brick and stucco decorations as well and acts as a precedent for the more lavish decorations of Seljuk and Ilkhanate Eras.

Iran’s Architecture from Seljuk to Timurid (11^th to 15^th Centuries)

Seljuk dynasty (11th century) is one of the most outstanding periods of Iran’s architecture. The construction of schools was popular in this time and many schools were built in the cities of Baghdad, Neyshabur, Marv, Rey and Hyrcania (current Gorgan). The plans of most of the buildings in this era was Four-Iwan design (Chahar Iwani) with stucco and brick as their prominent decorations. Iwan is a rectangular hall or space, usually vaulted, walled on three sides, with one end entirely open. They are mostly build in exterior space of the buildings having entrance/ exit spaces. Different buildings such as mosque, school, tomb and caravanserai were constructed in this era as well. The splendour and glory of Seljuk architecture are completely visible in Jameh mosque of Isfahan. Although, Jameh mosque of Isfahan is the result of continual construction, reconstruction, additions and renovations of 15 centuries of Islamic Era, the most beautiful and important part of the mosque belongs to Seljuk Dynasty. It is interesting to know that the use of tile as a decorative element has become popular since the end of 10th century. The oldest examples are the tiles of Kharraqan towers in Qazvin which were built in Seljuk Dynasty.

Preserving the Seljuk architectural styles including Four-Iwan design, Ilkhanate architecture entered a new stage; Iwan became higher with narrow width and the walls got narrower as well. Decorations like stucco, tile work and brick with special patterns adorned buildings. Mihrabs of Isfahan Jameh Mosque, Urmia and Oshtorjan mosques are the obvious proofs of the mastery in stucco art in that era.

During Timurid dynasty, the art of mosaic tiling reached its zenith, it is the art of the assembling of small pieces of coloured tiles to make an image. Mosques like Goharshad in Mashhad, Blue in Tabriz, Khargerd Ghiasieh School in Khorasan and some buildings in Herat and Bukhara show the importance and application of this art in religious buildings.

In this era, Grand Khorasan in east of Iran played an important role in development of architecture as well. Khorasan was the origin of lots of innovations in architecture that spread it to other parts of the country. Two-Iwan style was used in Khorasan for the first time and it was one of the first cities that the traces of turquoise tile are found in, this style can be observed in Mosques of Zuzan, Gonabad and Forumad.

Iranian Architecture Infographic / Historic Imam Mosque – Isfahan, Isfahan Province, Iran
Photo by Alexandre Rotenberg / Shutterstock
Infographic by Negar Ganji

Iran’s Architecture from Safavid to the Contemporary Era

The 16th and 17th centuries are known as the period of flourishment of Islamic arts in Iran. In the shadow of the support of Safavid’s kings, art and architecture advanced drastically. The majority of buildings in Safavid era such as mosques, schools, and caravanserais were constructed in a four-Iwan style and Muaraq (Mosaic) and Haft Rang (Seven-Coloured) tiles were the main decorations used in the buildings, the template of tiles were square which were glazed and seven colors were used to design them. Calligraphy on tile became common in decoration of religious buildings as well. Public places like mosque, bridge, bathhouse, water reservoir and specially caravanserai were built more than ever. Amin Abad caravanserai in Isfahan, Deh-bid caravanserai on the road of Isfahan to Shiraz and the numerous Abbasi caravanserais built all over the country were important caravanserais of this period.

After the fall of Safavid Dynasty, the same architectural style of that time continued like before but it was not as glorious as before. Kalat Naderi Palace (Khorshid Palace) in Khorasan province (Afsharid era) and Vakil complex in Shiraz (Zandiyeh era) are outstanding buildings of this period. After this period and with the beginning of Qajar Reign, architecture was the centre of attention again. Some of the buildings from Qajar era like Al-Nabi Mosque in Qazvin, the Haj Ali Agha complex in Kerman, Imam Mosque, Sepahsalar Mosque and school in Tehran, as well as Golestan palace are the examples of the breathtaking architecture of Qajar era.

Contemporary Architecture

The contemporary architecture of Iran starts from early 19th century and continues up to now. Architectural structures of buildings in this time were the combination of traditional and western architecture styles which were witnessed in constructs like Shahrbani Palace, Marble Palace and Post Office building of Tehran, or modern architectural style was entirely used.

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Robat Sharaf Caravanserai – Khorasan Razavi Province, Iran
Photo by Fereshteh Darakhshesh

Robat Sharaf, or Sharaf Caravanserai, is an important historical place that dates back to the late Seljuk era. It is located in the eastern part of the Red Road in Khorasan Razavi province. It was completed in 1154, under the reign of Sultan Sanjar. The founder of the building is Sharafadin Abutaher Ben Sa’dadin Ala al-Qomi. He was one of the rulers of the city of Marv and once the chancellor in the court of Sutan Sanjar.

Photo by Fereshteh Darakhshesh

Rabat Sharaf was 4863 meters in size and composed of two yards, each with four porches. The entrance was designed with blocks. The building has six towers from outside. There used to be three plastered vaults in the caravanserai but only two of them exist right now. The building is decorated with different types of blocks, plastered layers and mixed forms of block and plaster, making it one of the masterpieces of the twelfth and the thirteenth centuries. A precious collection of metal dishes from the Seljuk era, a set of commands from the Safavid era, coins, pots and unique crimson wares were found in one of the rooms of the caravanserai as restoration process was underway. There was a plaster inscription in Sols calligraphy under the vault that was found there. Many researchers call Robat Sharaf a museum of the art of architecture.

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This Caravanserai is located 67 Km away from the main road that connects Yazd to Kerman and is known to be one of the many Caravanserais that was built by the order of the Safavid King Shah Abbas. The place is known for its circular plan with about 1500 m² of total area. The circular plan was used in the places facing the threat of Sand Storm. Zein-o-Din has a gate in the south part of the construct and five watch towers, one is placed against the gate, in the north side, two on the West and two on the East. The towers are built in form of semi-circles and placed 20 meters from each other. The Caravanserai has different sections such as the Shah-Neshin (Royal Section), Stable, Yards, and Hojreh (rooms).

The main yard of the caravanserai, the one placed in the center of the construct is a Dodecagon surrounded by the rooms. The Shah Neshin, which is the biggest and most luxurious rooms of the caravanserai, is placed in the northern side of the courtyard. This room has a Badgir (wind catcher) that is used to cool the room and other sections of the caravanserai. The Hojreh or rooms are octagonal construct with small square shaped Iwans in front of them and walls that are filled with niches. The only way of entering the room is via the door that opens to the courtyard and unlike the rooms in traditional houses of Iran, these rooms are not linked to each other.

The roof is covered with bricks, there are 43 guarding sections placed in the circular roof of the place. The caravanserai is mostly built of brick, plaster, lime and tile. There are also some sections that massive rocks were used as a form of foundation. As it was mentioned, the caravanserai most likely dates back to the Shah Abbas time and was made around 1587 to 1628. Together with Zizeh Caravanserai in Kashan, they make the only two circular caravanserai of Iran.

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Photo by Parastoo.Atrsaei via Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0

Based on their location, Caravanserais are divided to those built inside city walls, those built outside city walls, and those built near the roads. Sa’d Al-Saltaneh Caravanserai is a city caravanserai, meaning it was built at the heart of the city. Naturally, the caravanserais placed inside cities are more than just place of rest for the passing travel groups and become an important place of trade. Therefore, they include different complementary sections such as shops, bathhouse, and mosque. Sa’d Al-Saltaneh is one of the biggest roofed caravanserai of Iran with an area of about 2.7 Hectare and 400 Hojreh or rooms that functioned as both a place of rest and a place of trade for the travelers, that is why the architecture of this caravanserai is so similar to a Bazaar.

Muhammad Bagher Khan Sa’d Al-Saltaneh Isfahani, the governor of Isfahan in the time of Naser Al Din Shah, ordered the construction of this caravanserai. It took four great master architects of the time two years to finish it. The caravanserai’s been built in the time of business flourishment between Iran and Russia, when trade spots were essential. However, after the World Wars, and when Russia was not financially stable, this caravanserai became unpopular, and its period of demise began.

Sa’d Al-Saltaneh is one of the biggest roofed caravanserai of Iran with an area of about 2.7 Hectare and 400 Hojreh or rooms that functioned as both a place of rest and a place of trade for the travelers, that is why the architecture of this caravanserai is so similar to a Bazaar.

The entrance to the place is possible through a portal that opens to the Imam Khomeini Street with magnificent decoration of bricks and tiles. The Caravanserai has 5 yards dividing the vast area into different sections. The main yard is surrounded from all sides with one story Hojreh or rooms that were made one meter above the yard level and reached through shallow stairs and an Iwans. The doors to the rooms were made of wood and sashed with color glasses. They are simple with dome ceiling and niches in the walls used for keeping and displaying goods. There are holes in the ceiling filled with color glasses that used to provide the necessary light of the Hojreh. The Iwans, stairs, and the rooms have stone pieces for the floor cover, but the yard itself lacked any covering.

West of the central yard, is the Negar Al-Saltaneh yard. This yard has two big Hojreh and two warehouses, and is linked to the Vazir Rast-e (a section of Bazaar). East of the main yard is the Sa’die Yard; there are two Iwans on North and South of the yard with different brick and tile work. On the Northeast of the yard, there is an arched vault with a higher roof in the center and two smaller one on either sides. The vault was connected to the street by a series of stairs. This yard has around 10 Hojreh and there was a Bath House on the North-East side of it as well.

South of the main yard is where the most important section of the Caravanserai is located, the Charsough. Charsough literary means four bazaars, and refers to a place where the 4 main paths of a bazaar or a caravanserai meet each other.

Sa’d Al-Saltaneh Charsough has 4 half-dome with decoration common to these constructs. The West section leads to Qeysarieh and then to the Vazir Rast-e. After the World War and then the recession that followed, the rooms of this caravanserai were sold as independent shops, warehouses and factories. The rest were left unsupervised which led to their destruction. For a time, the place was turned to a Flour Factory and then to Wood Carving Factory. There was even a time that the shop owners set fire to their shops to get compensation money from insurance companies.

The place was registered as a National Heritage in 1937 as part of the Qazvin Grand Bazar but later, in 1998, it was registered separately. With government’s emphasis on natural and cultural heritages in the last two decades, the caravanserai came to attention, and the cultural heritage organization with the help of local organizations, assigned a budget for the restoration of the place.  The caravanserai was restored in recent years, and now is used as a shop center.

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