The Kurdish Villages, Hajij – Kermanshah, Iran
Photo by Ramin Nouri

In the Western part of Iran and in a region inhabited by Kurds, there are three villages that share the same architectural style and history. From these three villages two are located in Kermanshah Province and one in Kurdistan Province. Hajij and Huraman are in the former and Palangan is in the latter province mentioned. All three villages are stepped in structure so that the roof of one house becomes the yard or the passageway of the houses in the upper level. The houses are built in two flats using dry stone technique. The houses differ based on its owner’s job. For example, the houses that belong to farmers have bigger storage areas and those inhabited by cattle owners have spacious barns. The cold weather of winters and the moderate weather of summer is another common feature of the three villages.

All three villages are stepped in structure so that the roof of one house becomes the yard or the passageway of the houses in the upper level. The houses are built in two flats using dry stone technique. The houses differ based on its owner’s job.

Kurds of that area were once true followers of Zoroastrianism. But even after converting to Islam, the traditions of Zoroastrianism remained in the collective memory of those people. This is represented in traditions like Pir Shaliar that is held twice a year in winter and spring. Shaliar was a pious man like a saint that lived in Huraman. When he was a child, he lost his parents and was left under the care of his uncle. The uncle’s wife didn’t love Shaliar and sent him out to take care of livestock and gather brushwood. However, because the kid was blessed, the livestock gave more milk and he could gather wood as much as ten men would do.

The uncle’s wife became suspicious of what was happening and followed the child one day. She saw that when Shaliar started playing his flute, the plants grew faster and the livestock ate from them. She returned to the village and told what she saw; that evening all the people gathered in the entrance of the village to welcome Shaliar. There is another story regarding Pir Shaliar and that is the tale of his marriage. The daughter of the king fell sick one day and no one was able to cure her. The king promised her daughter’s hand in marriage to whoever cures her. Shaliar helps and when he is sure of the girl’s consent, he agrees to the marriage. The marriage becomes the symbol of people’s unity and consensus.

So each year once in Ordibehesht, the second month of spring and once in Bahman, the second month of winter people gather around and celebrate the wedding anniversary of Shaliar and thank God for the discovery of fire and all that was given to human beings.

The Kurdish Villages, Huraman – Kermanshah, Iran
Photo By Radiokafka/shutterstock

The archeological findings of the three villages prove that they have a long history. From a cave near Hajij, archeologists found traces of life that went back to 12 to 40 thousand years ago. After long examinations, archeologists announced that the residents of these caves were the ancestors of those who lived in Bisotun and due to unknown reasons left the place. The traces of some residential places with a stone tomb were also found in this area (the area between the three villages); the tomb had an arched roof and is considered as one of the earliest examples of dome-making in Iran.

The Kurdish Villages, Palangan – Kurdistan, Iran

The next important finding of the area is a bas-relief belonging to the second Assyrian king named Sargon II accompanied with an inscription that explains his battles and victories. The last important finding of this area is a parchment belonging to the Seleucid and Parthian era in Greece and the Pahlavi era in Iran. The document has the names of a contract’s signatories. They names are mentioned in a special way, such as Tirak the son of Apen and Avil the son of Bashnin which proves that individuals were recognized by the name of their fathers. This document was donated to the British Museum.

The three villages have a lot in common, from a shared archeological style to history and people that speak Kurdish language, although with different accents. They are among the valuable historic villages of Iran that were mostly built in the mountains. Their ancient history and the traditions that are still held add to the significance of these villages in the Iranian culture.

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According to the archaeological excavations in different areas of Kermanshah such as the ancient hill Ganj Dareh in Harsin, the history of the province dates back to about 7,000 to 8,500 B.C. This proves the existence of the humans during the Stone Age of Paleolithic and Neolithic periods in this area. Sassanid kings (224-651 A.D.) were also present in this area where they built sumptuous and luxurious palaces and pavilions due to their appropriate geographical position.

The area was entitled “Qarmisin” by the Islamic geographers until the 4th century A.H. but later, it was replaced with Kermanshah. When the Islamic army conquered the historical city of Hulwan, Qarmisin was defeated by the Muslims without any resistance on the part of locals. The center of this district was the city of Qarmisin (Kermanshah), which was one of the four great cities of Jebal province (Ray, Hamedan, and Isfahan) during the Abbasid Caliphate period (750-1518).

Following the Mongol invasion, the area was severely damaged but during the time of Safavid (1501-1736), once again it found great significance though was seized several times by the Ottoman forces. When the Safavid Empire collapsed, the Ottoman forces dominated the area but years later, they were expelled from the west of Iran by Nader Shah Afshar (reign: 1736-1747) who also destroyed the old castle of Kermanshah and built a new fort in its place.

The pristine and beautiful nature of Kermanshah province along with the historical resources attracts domestic and inbound tourists to the region. The Uraman area, located in two provinces of Kurdistan and Kermanshah, is known as the Hezar Masouleh, attributing to the fact that there are many stepped villages (e.g., Hajij Village and Paveh City) in the area. Based on this style of architecture, the roof of the building below in the yard of the building above. Furthermore, Taq-e Bostan, Anubanini petroglyph, central mosque and the market of Kermanshah, Shafei Mosque, Tekyeh Biglarbeygi, Tekyeh Moaven al-Molk, and the Quri Qale Cave are among the historical attractions of the province.

Importantly, the Behistun inscription has been registered on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Of the most important handicrafts of the region include Giveh-Keshi (a form of shoes), Chopoq-Bafi (mat weaving), Qalam-Zani (engraving), Daf, Tar, and Tanbur (musical instruments), leather making, rug, men’s and women’s traditional clothing (Chookhe). In terms of souvenirs, Kak sweets, date bread, Kermanshahi oil, rice bread, sugary bread, Shaho honey, and Paveh pomegranate sauce are known in the province. Some of the local dishes include Dandeh Kebab, Aush-e Abaasali, Khomar Aushi, almond stew, Parsht, Dordeh, Sibpollo (rice and apple), Kermanshahi and Baghi Abgoosht.

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